Climbing the Triglav North Face
Challenge your body and mind on the great Wall
Enjoy climbing Triglav on its most classic North Face route
Learn new or revisit old climbing techniques
Marvel at the stunning views along the way
The north face of Triglav
Climbing Triglav North Face
The exposed part of Frelih exit on Slovenian route
Climbing the Triglav north face
Guided
Included in price
What to bring to the tour
Description
Take on the largest mountain wall in Slovenia on Triglav’s North Face. The 1000-metre drop is commonly referred to as The Wall and promises an unforgettable climb. Add your name to the enviable list of climbers who have tackled this rocky monster along its most traditional route. Ascending Triglav up the Slovene Route across the mountain’s North Face is a ‘rite of passage’ for via ferrata enthusiasts who want to challenge themselves by switching from marked trails to scaling this tremendous wall, reserved solely for climbers.
There are over 100 different climbing routes that lead across the Wall, from relatively easy ones, to the toughest mountaineering feats. And all of them are considerably long. For this one-of-a-kind Triglav climbing extravaganza, we’ve selected the most traditional among them. It’s called the Slovene Route and it’s a beauty!
The Slovene Route has soul, and its legacy reaches deep into the history of Slovene mountaineering. Although there is no certain record as to when the route was first climbed, its known origins date back to the 19th century when hunters and trackers from Trenta used to scale it. The Slovene Route might not be the most difficult way of tackling the North Face of Triglav, but it certainly is formidable in its own right and basic alpineering experience is obligatory. The ascent involves free climbing with a safety rope, which is handled by the guide (max two climbers). No previous knowledge of climbing with a rope is required, but as mentioned, the Slovenian Route does demand good psychophysical readiness and basic knowledge of movement across rough terrain. Practicing your skills on off-track routes or via ferratas comes highly recommended.
We approach the Wall within an hour’s time, followed by 800 incredible metres of climbing, which takes between 5-8 hours, depending on the climbers. During the ascent, adrenaline will pump in your veins and breath-taking views will penetrate your soul, not to be too poetic. The descent from the summit takes just under 3 hours and takes us back to the scenic Vrata Valley.
NOTE: It is possible to prolong the tour with sleeping in the hut and summiting Mt. Triglav the next morning. The hut should be booked several weeks in advance to make sure you get a spot.
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Things to know
Triglav is amongst the most popular mountains in Slovenia. It has a great symbolic value for us and the saying goes that you are not a true Slovenian until you stand on its summit. Therefore, you can expect a lot of people on the mountain in the high season (July-September), especially on weekends. On week-days, however, it is much more peaceful. Luckily, our guides have some tricks up their sleeves when it comes to avoiding the crowds. Hint: they know exactly when and where to go.
Thousands of people climb Mt.Triglav every year. Some come better prepared than others, who underestimate the climb, which can lead to accidents. But with the right approach, knowing the weather conditions (especially the possibility of thunderstorms and snowfall), with the proper safety equipment and an experienced guide, you can minimize the objective dangers and feel completely safe.
Mountain huts in the Slovenian mountains are very cosy and authentic, but provide only basic comfort. Don’t expect too much luxury. Early bookings are usually rewarded with a room but if all rooms are full there are dormitories. There is no shower and the lavatories are basic. There is running water but it is not drinkable. The food is tasty and local but the menu is limited to a few dishes and drinks.
The earlier the better. The highest season, from July to September, it is not unusual for huts to be fully booked for months ahead. Weekdays are better but we still suggest bookings at least a month in advance. Last-minute bookings are very dependable on the weather – if the forecast is not a perfect bluebird, then some spots usually become available a few days before.
It is important that your clothes are comfortable. You should have comfortable shoes with a good grip. It is recommended that you also have some warmer and windproof clothing with you as the temperature can drop or in case of cold wind. You can always leave excess clothes in the van after consulting with our guide.
In case of bad weather the tour can be postponed or you will be fully refunded.
The season stated is informative. The tour is possible if the wall is dry. If there is snow, take a look at winter variation of the tour.
The tour is technically demanding and you will be secured with the rope on the exposed sections. Therefore, only two clients per guide are possible, to assure the best and safest experience.
The tour can take most of the day and usually is hard to predict how fast we will be. So be ready for a long and challenging day.
Worry not! The route is graded II-III in UIAA scale, which means it is pretty easy and anybody with some experiences in the mountains can do it. It is, however, not recommended if you have vertigo. You will be safely secured with a roped in all exposed sections and helped with a guide if needed. The trickiest part is soon after the start and if you don’t feel confident it is easy to turn back.
There are several variations of the Slovenian route, to make it more fun and exposed. There are, of course, also other more demanding routes to choose from. Our guide will be happy to recommend some for you.
Our tours are led by professional local guides. Our guides will make sure that you receive expert guiding combined with great fun and a memorable experience.
The tour is not suitable for children.
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