Climbing the Triglav North Face

Take on the largest mountain wall in Slovenia on Triglav’s North Face. The 1000-metre drop is commonly referred to as The Wall and promises an unforgettable climb. Add your name to the enviable list of climbers who have tackled this rocky monster along its most traditional route. Ascending Triglav up the Slovene Route across the mountain’s North Face is a ‘rite of passage’ for via ferrata enthusiasts who want to challenge themselves by switching from marked trails to scaling this tremendous wall, reserved solely for climbers.

There are over 100 different climbing routes that lead across the Wall, from relatively easy ones, to the toughest mountaineering feats. And all of them are considerably long. For this one-of-a-kind Triglav climbing extravaganza, we’ve selected the most traditional among them. It’s called the Slovene Route and it’s a beauty!

The Slovene Route has soul, and its legacy reaches deep into the history of Slovene mountaineering. Although there is no certain record as to when the route was first climbed, its known origins date back to the 19th century when hunters and trackers from Trenta used to scale it. The Slovene Route might not be the most difficult way of tackling the North Face of Triglav, but it certainly is formidable in its own right and basic alpineering experience is obligatory. The ascent involves free climbing with a safety rope, which is handled by the guide (max two climbers). No previous knowledge of climbing with a rope is required, but as mentioned, the Slovenian Route does demand good psychophysical readiness and basic knowledge of movement across rough terrain. Practicing your skills on off-track routes or via ferratas comes highly recommended.

We approach the Wall within an hour’s time, followed by 800 incredible metres of climbing, which takes between 5-8 hours, depending on the climbers. During the ascent, adrenaline will pump in your veins and breath-taking views will penetrate your soul, not to be too poetic. The descent from the summit takes just under 3 hours and takes us back to the scenic Vrata Valley.

NOTE: It is possible to prolong the tour with sleeping in the hut and summiting Mt. Triglav the next morning. The hut should be booked several weeks in advance to make sure you get a spot.